![]() Meanwhile, surprisingly tender surf clams show up in a tomatoey Spanish escabeche, further flavored with Meyer lemon. Tuna crudo is the simplest of the raw seafood preparations, dicing the bright red flesh with serrano peppers, squirting green beads of guacamole around it. Chile oil sharpens the flavor, and, with the fish positioned on a mountain of crushed ice, eating it made me feel like I was lounging on a floaty in the arctic. These are not the green gooseberries one often finds in the farmers markets, but a husk cherry - one form of gooseberry - that paints the ceviche with sweet orange brush strokes. The raw morsels of this local fish came tossed with gooseberries. It was served on a handsome ceramic plate, while paradoxically, the scallop’s shell was used as a vessel for a sea bass ceviche. This is carefully engineered food at its best. A surprise ingredient was finger lime, native to Australia – pinkie-size citrus with outsize vesicles, the individual sacs bursting periodically in your mouth with an explosion of tart flavor. But my favorite was a scallop aguachile that exploited the inherent sweetness of the finely cubed shellfish, immersing it in a greenish oil tasting faintly of mint. ![]() I tried every one, and there wasn’t a dud among them. The section of the menu called “mariscos” lists five preparations ($18 to $21) that perfectly cover the territory of raw seafood on both coasts of Mexico. For most of the day, Tacos Güey is a place where you can actually see your food after that hour, a darker and loungier atmosphere prevails. Behind a banquette, recessed fixtures immerse diners’ heads in a halo of light, while bright linear ceiling fixtures look like they might have been borrowed from a classroom. ![]() Covered in brick with charcoal-gray trim, the interior has raised tables with backless stools in the front, and more formal ones opposite a bar in the rear. The restaurant’s logo is a Statue of Liberty clutching a taco. Needless to say, he has at his disposal a wealth of local and international ingredients. Focusing equally on tacos and ceviches, chef Henry Zamora is a veteran of French Laundry, Quince, and many other restaurants, but had never professionally explored the Mexican food of his home in California’s Salinas Valley. The exterior of Tacos Güey features a Statue of Liberty banner Taco Güey’s interior at midday, when the lights are brightĮnter Tacos Güey three weeks ago on 19th Street just west of Fifth Avenue, replicating some of the Atla vibe.
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